Oxomoco, Reviewed
Greenpoint, Brooklyn – Dined April 12, 2023
Squeezed between two weathered brick buildings on a quiet street in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Oxomoco serves up some of the finest Mexican-American cuisine we’ve experienced to date. On first glance and from the outside looking in, the restaurant looks like a hip but relatively unassuming Mexican joint. Walking into this elevated eatery, though, immediately informs the guest that they have entered a Michelin-tier NYC establishment.
Dining at Oxomoco immerses you in an aura reminiscent of a trendy resort restaurant on a tropical vacation somewhere warm and sunny, with clean, white-painted exposed brick, bright white walls and modern lighting fixtures, gorgeous architectural details, and thriving potted cacti and hanging greenery. It is immediately evident that everything is running efficiently and with great precision and care; waiters and waitresses weave in and out from table to table serving exquisite looking (and tasting, we later verified) Mexican fare; bartenders rhythmically shake hand-crafted cocktails from behind a smooth stone bar; and talented chefs work from inside a small kitchen that is open for the customers to watch their work (almost like getting a live-action behind the scenes view of your favorite play). The interior of the restaurant is beautiful and inviting, situated on the ground level with no buildings above it to obstruct its view. The skylights effortlessly allow in the last natural sunlight of the day, which accentuates the greenery draped from the vaulted ceilings high above the stone floors. As we were led to our table, we exchanged a knowing look of approval; this is the kind of restaurant where you know right away that they know what the heck they’re doing.
THE FOOD
OXOMOCO GUACOMOLE
We started our meal with a classic, all-time favorite appetizer that each of us has probably had many more times than we can count. Oxomoco’s quintessential starter is perfectly balanced (as all things should be) and just a damn good guac. It was bright, fresh and creamy with the perfect amount of acidity, spicy kick from the chili powder around the edges, and salty finish courtesy of the queso fresco sprinkled generously on top. The guacamole was accompanied by a homemade tortilla crisps to scoop it all up with. The stars of this dish however, were the marinated smoked cherry tomatoes found buried in the creamy guac, which added brightness and additional acidity with a touch of sweetness to the guacamole that really balanced out the dish and elevated it to a superb rendition of this Mexican classic. It was the perfect start to what we already knew was going to be a memorable meal.
SOY-MARINATED TUNA TOSTADA
Though excellent, the soy-marinated tuna tostada was admittedly the most underwhelming of the dishes we tried at Oxomoco. Still, it’s a supremely balanced starter with a ton of flavor. Being the worst among the best of the best isn’t so bad. The tuna was fresh and bright with the slightest iron-y tinge and an umami finish thanks to the infusion of marinated soy. The sweet and savory salsa pairs well with the creamy avocado spread, and the soft tuna and avocado mixture is juxtaposed nicely with the crunch of thinly sliced radishes, toasted sesame seeds, and, of course, the perfectly crisp homemade tostada upon which it all sits. Overall, it is a tasty small plate and well-executed rendition of a familiar dish that we thoroughly enjoyed; as long as the fish is fresh and flavorful (it was), you really can’t go wrong with a good tuna tartare. Though simple in execution, it certainly beats the one at Cheesecake Factory by a mile and a half.
BEEF TARTARE TOSTADA
Oxomoco’s beef tartare tostada is another familiar favorite dish of ours with a Mexican spin and one very unfamiliar and slightly scary ingredient: whole, perfectly intact, crispy-crunchy grasshoppers.
We had never tried grasshoppers (or any insect) prior to our reservation at Oxomoco, and we didn’t particularly care for their villainous deeds in A Bug’s Life, but after devouring this tostada, we were sold. The grasshoppers add a needed textural crunch to the plate and are surprisingly subtle in flavor, with a nutty/salty finish that was reminiscent of those barrels full of peanuts served at Five Guys. Oxomoco goes all-out with its grasshopper twist to this classic starter, adding another level of insect flavor with a smattering of grasshopper mayo. The tangy mayo pairs perfectly with the silky raw beef, while the avocado chunks serve as a sort of neutral palate cleanser. We were scared to try this dish for obvious reasons (or maybe not so obvious if you eat grasshoppers on the reg), but we’d encourage any skeptical foodie to summon the courage to take the trip to insect flavor town. (And, by the way, if you’re really vehemently opposed, they’re easy to pick off the top).
PUNTA VERDE CEASER SALAD
This was hands down the best Caesar salad we have ever had. Uniquely, the romaine is wood-fired to perfection, adding a smoky, grilled bite that lends a depth of flavor typically generic Caeser salad. It tastes like a char-grilled summer barbecue item in the best possible way. The romaine is smothered in a Caesar dressing that is simultaneously creamy, rich, salty and acidic. Every inch of fiery romaine is then generously sprinkled with a mixture of cotija cheese and crunchy homemade masa that provides texture and another hearty dose of unmatched flavor. For a couple who is usually unimpressed by salads (we don’t even typically order them), this plate of green was an exception to the rule that must be tried by veggie fanatics and salad skeptics alike.
LAMB BARBACOA TACOS
It would feel sacrilegious to dine at any respectable Mexican joint and not try at least a few tacos. We struggled to pick only two from the abundant menu, but ultimately went with the lamb barbacoa and swordfish tacos. The lamb barbacoa tacos with squash blossom, watercress and lime green salsa pipicha can be described as elevated comfort food. The lamb is tender and juicy and gave it an unctuous flavor infused in spice. The zucchini blossoms add a whimsical freshness and floral pop that balances the meatiness of the lamb. The chef smartly omits any noticeably crunchy additions to this taco, opting instead to let the smoothness of the shredded slow-cooked lamb and the homemade masa taco dance together and melt in your mouth.
SWORDFISH TACOS
Oxomoco’s swordfish tacos were easily some of the best, if not the singular best fish tacos we’ve had in NYC. The lightly seared swordfish was exceptionally fresh and it has effectively ruined all other swordfish preparations for us forever. If you aren’t serving your swordfish delicately seared with a bright pink interior just barely kissed with heat… we don’t want it anymore! The rare cook on this protein also speaks to the quality and freshness of the swordfish, which was not betrayed by even the slightest tinge of fishy flavor. This superior fish taco had all the elements needed to elevate it above all others: fresh, high-quality, perfectly-cooked fish, a burst of bright citrus, and a creamy sauce. The marinated white onions provided a welcome tang, while the salsa arabe supplied a punch to the tastebuds. These tacos had us nodding and grinning at each other across the table in mouthfuls of silent satisfaction as this dish hit all of the notes that make for a superior fish taco.
HOJA SANTA “HERB CURD” DESSERT
We can appreciate a great dessert, but, in the battle of sweet vs. savory, we’d take savory 99 times out of 100. Oxomoco’s herb curd dessert, however, was the best of both worlds, and made us believers in the value of tacking on a dessert to the end of a good meal.
After a culinary journey that produced some of the most delightful Mexican food we’ve ever consumed, this dessert managed to shine as the unexpected superstar of the night. The hoja santa herb treat was a revelation, and the perfect end to an already more than satisfactory meal. When we heard “herb curd”, we were skeptical, but our server’s enthusiastic testimonial convinced us to try it. The marriage of a creamy and velvety curd with the earthiness and floral tones of the hoja santa herb was out of this world. The curd is generously topped with a delightful strawberry raspado, sweet shaved ice that serves as a welcome textual antithesis to the smooth and creamy curd, while the drizzle of santa hoja oil pooling at the bottom of the bowl provides a perfect herbaceous finish that really solidifies the unique flavorfulness of the dish. It’s unlike any desert we’ve tried before, and we’re still Team Savory (we’ll probably always prefer an extra appetizer over splurging on a sweet bookend to our dinner dates), but chalk up a massive win for Team Sweet, courtesy of the herbed curd at Oxomoco.
A FEW FINAL THOUGHTS…
New York City presents a cornucopia of high tier dining options, with the highest concentration of excellent restaurants and one of the most varied food scenes, maybe in the whole world, though sadly lacking in Michelin-starred fine dining Mexican fare. At this time, there are only four Michelin-starred restaurants in NYC, each with one star (one of them being Oxomoco). Oxomoco has certainly earned its place among those exalted few. It was the perfect spot for a special occasion, topped off with a fruity frozen dessert shot for Erin’s birthday. Throughout this special meal, our taste buds were dancing with more voracity than Lionel Richie, and like Lionel, we wish this meal could have lasted all night long. Oxomoco sits comfortably at the top of our list of Mexican spots in NYC, and whenever we go back won’t be soon enough! The siren call of the seasonal menu (and the margaritas) is already beckoning us back.
Our Rating: 9.4
Check them out at oxomoconyc.com.
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